Wednesday, December 25, 2024

Bangalore, Bengaluru, and Big Lessons

Bangalore, or as it’s officially known now, Bengaluru, is a city of contrasts. At just 10 sq km larger than Singapore but with a staggering population of 14 million, it’s easy to see why it’s nicknamed the Silicon Valley of India. The city pulls in people from across the country (and the world) who are hungry for opportunities in tech, education, and more. On the ground, the city is divided into 2 stands, one group that feels the overcrowding situation should be handled, and the other group to feel that it should be organic and allow the freedom of choice for internal migration and the city will figure out. For us, a group of students on a mission to explore Applied Sustainability, the city promised an exciting backdrop for understanding the challenges and opportunities of sustainable living in a megacity. 


A Sustainability Skeptic 

First, a confession: I’ve never considered myself a sustainability enthusiast. Let’s be real—how much difference can one person make? Isn’t it the job of big corporations to deal with waste, energy use, and pollution? Honestly, I came to Bangalore skeptical. But this trip? It made me rethink a lot. What struck me most was the sheer number of ground-up initiatives. These weren’t flashy, Instagrammable projects, but real efforts from people who saw the gap between well-written policies and the messy reality of implementation. Particularly in rural areas, it felt like people had taken the reins to solve problems their own way.


Ragikana: A Farmers Market with Heart

On Christmas Day, we visited Ragikana, a farmers’ market that felt like a breath of fresh air. It wasn’t just about buying organic veggies or pretty snacks. It was a place where farmers and consumers actually connected, bridging the urban-rural divide. The energy there was palpable—Christmas cheer blended with the warmth of a community genuinely working towards sustainable farming practices. I couldn't help but think: This is what ground-up sustainability looks like. It’s not just about eco-labels; it’s about trust, relationships, and shared purpose. Each member of the community brings in something for the rest. I see some cake-baking workshops; some offered their expert insights on topics such as "Adapted Christmas Celebration in India", "Arts", "Sustainable Living", and more; some are mere consumers to support the small scale farmers who came with limited quantity of fruits and vegetables; some are here to spread awareness of some apps they have developed for delivery of good; some just want to showcase their crafts. 


Farmers’ Struggles: Beyond the Policies

Bangalore, nestled in the state of Karnataka, is paradoxically home to one of India’s largest hubs for agricultural exports and yet grapples with severe challenges at the grassroots level. Despite its reputation for being the “Silicon Valley of India,” agriculture remains a significant livelihood for millions in Karnataka. However, the reality of farming here—and in much of India—paints a starkly different picture compared to the glossy success stories of the tech industry.

Karnataka is a leading exporter of coffee, spices, flowers, and millet. Its agricultural exports contribute significantly to the state's GDP and global trade presence. Yet, the average annual income of a farmer in Karnataka is approximately ₹84,000 annually (SGD $1,400). Compare this with India’s national average income of around ₹192,000 (SGD $3,200), and the disparity becomes glaring. This vast income gap highlights the systemic undervaluation of the agricultural sector and the challenges faced by those who are the backbone of this industry.

Underemployment: A Persistent Issue

One of the biggest issues farmers in Karnataka face is underemployment—a situation where people are employed but not working to their full potential. In agriculture, this is rampant due to several interconnected factors:

  1. Seasonal Nature of Farming: Farming is inherently cyclical, with peak labor requirements during sowing and harvest seasons but long periods of inactivity in between.

  2. Lack of Alternative Jobs: Many rural areas in Karnataka lack viable non-agricultural job opportunities. While Bangalore offers tech and service jobs, these opportunities rarely extend to rural communities.

  3. Low Skill Diversification: Farmers and agricultural workers often lack the training needed to transition into other industries, creating a vicious cycle of reliance on low-paying agricultural work.

  4. Land Fragmentation: Over generations, landholdings have been divided into smaller plots due to inheritance practices. The average farm size in Karnataka is just 1.55 hectares, making it increasingly unviable for farming. This limits farmers' ability to scale or innovate, further worsening underemployment.One of the most pressing challenges in Karnataka’s agriculture sector is land shrinkage, caused by a mix of economic, social, and environmental factors : Generational Land Division: Families divide their land among children, resulting in smaller and less productive plots over time ; Rising Debts: Many farmers take on loans to invest in crops or cover basic expenses. Poor yields, low market prices, or erratic weather often leave them unable to repay, forcing them to sell off land to settle debts, an endless debt cycle from banks and unofficial lenders, and Policies generally do not reach to them due to accesibility to the proper channel of help ; Erratic Weather and Droughts: Karnataka has been particularly vulnerable to changing climate patterns. Droughts, unseasonal rains, and rising temperatures have severely affected crop yields. For example, in recent years, the state has faced one of the highest rates of drought among Indian states.


Waste Management: Walking the Talk

Bangalore’s approach to waste management is an inspiring blend of innovation, community participation, and education. It goes beyond mere segregation into a robust system that integrates the principles of the 5 Rs: Reject, Reduce, Reuse, Repurpose, Recycle. During our visits, we saw firsthand how these principles are applied and the transformative impact they have on sustainability and livelihoods. At Swachagraha Kalika Kendra, this segregation goes further, focusing on education to ensure communities understand the value of sorting waste at the source. It has become a beacon of community-driven composting education : Interactive Sessions: Workshops teach residents how to compost kitchen and garden waste at home ; Garden Waste Management: Public gardens in Bangalore collect organic waste, which is then composted to enrich the soil, reducing the need for chemical fertilizers ; Demonstration Plots: The center uses demonstration gardens to show how compost can rejuvenate soil, promoting urban farming and community gardens. A standout aspect of Bangalore’s waste management system is the role of Rural Women in the process.Women are employed to sort dry waste, particularly plastics, into 27 specific categories. This meticulous sorting enables higher-quality recycling and reduces contamination. Many of these women come from economically disadvantaged backgrounds. Their involvement not only provides a steady income but also gives them a sense of purpose and dignity. Training programs help women learn about recycling technologies and innovative uses for sorted waste, such as turning plastics into road-building materials. Similarly, this is seen in Sunbird Straws Processing Centres and Bakahu Powder Centres too. 


Education: The True Equalizer

If there’s one thing that can transform any society, it’s education. Bangalore exemplified this idea in ways I hadn’t anticipated. From discussions about the importance of vocational training for rural youth to the role of universities in sustainability research, I saw how education can bridge the gap between policy and reality, such as "Art of Living" centre, though the questionable spirituality aspects, but amazing inititatives to empower youths and the rurals. 57 programs are offered by Art of Living, tailored to various age groups and needs, focusing on personal development, stress elimination, and holistic well-being. These includes : Transformation of Barren Land, Reviving Water Bodies, Skill Development Programs (Engineering, Solar, Drones, Mobile Repair, IT Services, etc), Project Bharat, Solar Electrification of the Campus, APEX (Achieving Personal Excellence), and more. 

It was particularly inspiring to hear about initiatives targeting women and marginalized communities, giving them access to skills and opportunities that might otherwise have been out of reach. The city’s higher socio-economic status, fueled by its booming tech and corporate sectors, has cultivated a globalized and considerate urban culture. This was evident in everyday interactions, particularly on public transport, where people refrained from loud conversations, avoided disruptive behaviors like video calls, and maintained an awareness of personal space. The metro’s women-only carriages added another layer of comfort and safety, reflecting the city’s commitment to gender inclusivity. Initiatives like the Shakti Scheme, which provides free public transport for women, have had transformative effects, empowering women from lower-income households to join the workforce, participate in civic activities, and contribute to the economy. This accessibility has boosted household incomes and promoted a more inclusive society, showcasing how education and thoughtful policies can enhance women’s agency in both public and professional spheres. Beyond transport, the city’s emphasis on gender inclusivity is evident in the safety measures and campaigns that encourage greater confidence and mobility for women.

Breaking away from group in the evenings to explore the city independently (me and my buddy) revealed Bengaluru’s unique character. Luxurious dining venues and high-end malls were bustling with professionals and families, demonstrating the city’s ability to balance its globalized image with local traditions. This cultural fusion, driven by education and economic growth, gives Bengaluru its vibrancy and distinct identity. It is a city where education transcends the classroom, shaping behaviors, fostering inclusivity, and contributing to a thriving, cohesive community. My time here made it clear that when combined with opportunity and thoughtful policies, education can transform not just individuals, but entire cities. Education’s influence extends to the city’s polished etiquette and civic responsibility. Employees from global companies like Boeing, Google, and Microsoft, frequenting upscale restaurants and shopping spaces, carry themselves with civility and respect. Public spaces, from parks to metro stations, are maintained with a sense of shared responsibility, reflecting the values of an educated and aware populace.


Mysore : A Brief Journey to the Past 

Mysore, a city steeped in history and culture, offered us a window into its rich past and vibrant present through its diverse attractions. One of the highlights was our visit to the St. Philomena’s Cathedral, a striking example of architectural and cultural fusion. Its neo-Gothic design, inspired by Cologne Cathedral, is stunning, but what stood out were the varied sculptures and artwork adorning the interior. The cathedral features a blend of Orthodox, Catholic, and even Eastern influences, a testament to the scarcity of craftsmen during its construction. Instead of rigid exclusivity, the church embraced artisans from all denominations, resulting in an awe-inspiring space that beautifully merges spiritual traditions. It serves not just as a place of worship but also as a symbol of unity and inclusivity.

Next, we explored the grandeur of the Mysore Palace, one of India’s most iconic royal residences. Built in the Indo-Saracenic style, the palace is a masterpiece of ornate architecture with its domes, arches, and intricate carvings. Historically, the palace stands as a symbol of the Wodeyar dynasty, which ruled Mysore for over five centuries. The Wodeyars were patrons of art, culture, and education, and their reign significantly contributed to the city’s prosperity and development. They championed the arts, funded public infrastructure, and played a key role in integrating Mysore into the broader fabric of modern India. Today, the palace attracts millions of visitors annually, offering a glimpse into the opulence and influence of Mysore's kings, whose contributions continue to shape the region’s identity.

At the Jaganmohan Palace Art Gallery, we delved into Mysore’s artistic heritage. Among the many treasures housed here, one particularly fascinating exhibit caught my eye: an ancient version of Indian chess, known as Chaturanga or Indian attack chess. This precursor to modern chess reflects India’s deep intellectual and cultural history, emphasizing strategy, foresight, and skill. The gallery, with its vast collection of paintings, sculptures, and artifacts, encapsulates Mysore’s legacy as a hub for creativity and innovation. It’s a reminder of how art has always been a powerful medium for storytelling and cultural preservation in this region.

Our visit to the Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary offered a refreshing break from the city's historical grandeur, immersing us in the wonders of nature. Spanning over 40 acres, this sanctuary is a haven for migratory birds, including painted storks, pelicans, and open-bill storks. Its unique ecosystem, centered around the Kaveri River, supports diverse flora and fauna, creating a delicate balance that sustains life for both resident and visiting species. The sanctuary is a vital breeding ground for many birds and serves as a significant site for ecological conservation in Karnataka. Observing the serene interactions between the river, the birds, and the lush greenery was a humbling experience, underscoring the importance of protecting such habitats amidst the pressures of urbanization.

Mysore seamlessly blends history, art, and nature, offering a rich tapestry of experiences. Each site we visited revealed a new layer of its heritage, from its royal past to its vibrant ecosystems, leaving us with a deeper appreciation for the city’s enduring legacy.


Food: Street vs. Fine Dining

Let’s talk about food—because what’s a trip without culinary adventures?

In most cities I’ve traveled to, the best food is usually on the streets. Bangalore, though, flipped this on its head. During the first week, we explored campus eateries and street vendors, but the standout meals came from Alchemy : Contemporary Indian Cuisine, ZLB23 Speakeasy Bar where band played Bon Jovi Tribute and we had to go through the backdoor, up the lift in the kitchen, and press a suspicious floor to reveal the lcoation, and Shiv Sagar Fine Dining. Then, for the thrill of it, we had Beef Sizzling Steaks after the visit to see 1,200 cows at some GuruKul, and then had some Pork Sausages wrapped with Pork Bacon, a rare menu there. 

Why? Maybe it’s because South Indian food in Singapore’s Little India is already so authentic. Being a guide myself, I’ve tasted some of the best dosa, idli, and biryani back home. Indian food, wherever you go, retains its authenticity—it’s one of the few cuisines that migrates without losing its soul. So while the street food in Bangalore was good, it wasn’t necessarily new for me.

That being said, we have also hunted for the most unhygenic street food possible, eating Cup Corns from street peddlers, Lime Soda where the cups are laden with black layer of dust, Holige where they wash their post-cash-handling-hands in the same bucket of water to prepare the food too, and some Dosa prepared on a Gas Tawa that didnt seemed to be washed for decades. But all in all, no food poisoning no diarrhoea no major health concern. I guess in Bangalore, things are not as unclean as the stereotypes. 


Indian Hospitality: A Cultural Immersion

Our time in India was nothing short of extraordinary, largely thanks to the hospitality extended to us by the local students. From the moment we arrived, they welcomed us into their culture with warmth and enthusiasm, introducing us to experiences we might never have ventured into on our own. Indian hospitality is something else—it’s a blend of generosity, openness, and a genuine desire to share their world with outsiders.

One of the first things we noticed was how they curated our food adventures. At one restaurant, a COW casually wandered into the premises while everyone, including the staff, seemed completely unfazed. It was a surreal moment, reminding us how deeply embedded animals are in everyday Indian life. On the roads, we witnessed "Jugaad" in action—a uniquely Indian form of resourcefulness. Drivers would pull off makeshift fixes to vehicles, tie things together with ropes, or stack goods precariously on a small bike, showcasing their ingenious ability to make things work with minimal resources. Or sometimes they just wanted a chai or to go to the nature toilet (bush) HAHAHAHS! It’s chaotic, but it works, and honestly, there’s a certain beauty in that ingenuity.

Getting around was an adventure in itself. We experienced the full range of transportation—from squeezing into a tuktuk (auto) that darted through traffic like it had a death wish, to riding the surprisingly efficient metro system. On Uber Motorbikes, we saw other bikers zoomed past us with whole families balanced on a single seat, an everyday spectacle that left us wide-eyed. Despite the occasional moments of terror on the roads, the charm of it all was undeniable.

One of the highlights was breaking away from the structured itinerary to enjoy the nightlife. We danced at an Indian club (ignoring the strict campus curfew and booking a nearby hotel to avoid being caught), sang our hearts out at a Rooftop Karaoke Bar, and soaked in the buzzing energy of the city. The students’ hospitality extended beyond just showing us around—they invited us into their Home for games and sweets, and ofcoz alcohol and stuffs, creating an intimate experience that truly made us feel like part of their community. At Mysore, there was nothing going on after 10pm so we had room karaoke, dance, party and smokes, till 3am. 

Admittedly, we guys took more liberties than the 4 girls, who were understandably cautious, coming from the more sheltered environment of Singapore. While they meticulously stuck to the RAMS (Risk Assessment) guidelines, we embraced the unpredictable. From playing with wild dogs and cows to examining worms up close, we threw caution to the wind. I couldn’t help but think that being in a foreign country is about immersing yourself fully, fears and all. After all, what’s the worst that could happen? We had our travel insurance for a reason.

This trip wasn’t just about seeing a new place—it was about living it. The chaos, the warmth, the resilience, and the pure spirit of India left a mark on us. Indian hospitality isn’t just about welcoming guests; it’s about making them feel at home, part of the fabric of the culture. It’s messy, it’s unpredictable, but it’s real. And for that, I’ll always be grateful.


Vaibhav : My Indian Brother 

Among the many highlights of this trip, meeting Vaibhav stands out as a truly unforgettable experience. A master’s student specializing in sustainability, Vaibhav was a bundle of energy and enthusiasm, someone who could match me stride for stride in terms of fun and high spirits. What made him even more impressive was his well-traveled background and deep appreciation for food, particularly his expertise in biryani. From Hyderabadi to Lucknowi styles, he seemed to have a detailed knowledge of every variety, making him a foodie with a true specialty.

What I didn’t expect, however, was the connection we’d form over country music. It’s not every day you meet someone outside of the usual country music circles who shares a love for artists like Kenny Rogers. At his house, I spotted a vinyl collection that spoke volumes about his eclectic tastes, and when he claimed Rogers as his top artist, I knew I had to do something special. I ended up buying him a premium limited-edition vinyl—probably the most expensive one I’ve ever purchased. It was worth every penny, though, to honor this bubbly chap who made the trip so memorable.

One moment that perfectly encapsulates Vaibhav’s spirit was on the bus when he suddenly broke into song with "On the Rivers of Babylon." I was half-asleep at the time but immediately woke up to join him in a raucous singalong. His energy was infectious, his laughter contagious, and his zest for life unparalleled. Vaibhav is truly a gem, someone who brought joy and connection to this journey, and I’ll always remember him as one of the brightest highlights of my time in India.


El : Curious Boy stuck with me for Bangalore 

This trip wouldn’t have been as unforgettable without my buddy, El. I didn’t expect to have such a great time, especially as I’m probably the oldest in the group, and I tend to explore countries with a different lens—seeking cultural immersion rather than sticking to what’s presented on the surface. But El’s energy and curiosity added a whole new dimension to this journey. The turning point came right on the first night when he casually asked, “You want to go out of campus to explore nearby food?” That simple question marked the beginning of our shared adventure.

El’s openness to Indian food was refreshing. Being constantly exposed to it during the trip, everything felt new and exciting to him—far beyond the typical prata and butter chicken he was used to back home. His fearless approach made every meal an adventure, and his genuine enthusiasm resonated with everyone, especially the local students. By the second day, he had already struck up friendships, diving into their hospitality with open arms. Whether it was playing sports, visiting their homes, or asking about their daily routines, hobbies, and aspirations, El was eager to explore their world. He didn’t just skim the surface—he engaged deeply, from discussing side hustles to exchanging views on world politics and global finance.

Despite the seven-year age gap between us, I never felt disconnected. El’s readiness to talk about more personal topics—romance, life trajectories, social constructs—made for meaningful conversations that I truly valued. Fun fact: I learned that he’s a Grade 7 piano player, was part of a concert band playing percussion, and is quite the metalhead, with Kingslayer by BMTH being one of his favorites. Beyond these revelations, I had the chance to share my perspectives with him too, from appreciating cocktails as a craft rather than a means to get drunk, to exploring the symbolism behind art and religion.

El’s inquisitive nature and openness reminded me of another good friend, Jasper, and I couldn’t help but think how amazing it would be to bring both of them along for my planned Ancient Civilizations trip to Thailand, Vietnam, and Cambodia. El’s ability to connect with people, embrace new experiences, and dive into deeper topics makes him an incredible travel companion. This trip not only strengthened our bond but also gave me a new appreciation for exploring a country through someone else’s fresh perspective. Here’s to more adventures with El—someone who turned this journey into something truly special.


Dr Cynthia : Enabler of This Trip 

This portion is written to express my deepest gratitude and admiration for the exceptional guidance and facilitation provided by Dr. Cynthia throughout this program. Her expertise and dedication have not only enriched my experience in Bengaluru but have also profoundly shaped my understanding of the complexities and nuances of the topics we explored.

Dr. Cynthia’s ability to tactfully navigate the dynamics between the Singaporean and Indian students has been exemplary. She has seamlessly aligned expectations from guest speakers and hosts, creating an environment of mutual respect and collaboration. Her thoughtful approach to facilitation has enabled us to not only see things from different perspectives but also to dive deep into the range topics with curiosity and purpose. What I admire most about Dr. Cynthia is her remarkable ability to embody an inter-disciplinary lens. Whether examining issues from the perspective of policymakers, understanding social and informal norms, applying sociological thinking, appreciating cultural traditions, or aligning with national priorities of both Singapore and India, she has consistently broadened our horizons and encouraged us to think critically and holistically.

Under her guidance, I have been able to gain a deeper understanding of the interconnections between these diverse perspectives, helping me appreciate the intricacies of sustainable development, cross-cultural collaboration, and global priorities. Her efforts have truly framed my experience in Bengaluru as one of profound learning, growth, and immersion. I am incredibly grateful to have had the opportunity to learn from Dr. Cynthia and witness her dedication to fostering meaningful, interdisciplinary learning. 

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