November 2024. Northern Vietnam
My Northern Vietnam trip this round in 2024, would be summarised in 3 portions, first Caving with Oxalis Adventure, then Ha Giang Easy Rider Motorbike Loop with SoTravel SG, and then Cao Bang Loop with a local operator.
Arrived on 07 Nov and straight to Dong Hoi on overnight train. Was picked up early morning 7am by Oxalis to my homestay. Was a great rest because of early check in, cycled around the town a bit before going for the Sunset Cruise on Chay River. The next day had a Full Day Tour on Phong Nha Caves by Boat. It was rather "built up" as it was a cave full of artificial lights. The boatman then explained the different shapes, just like a typical imagination-led exploration of the cave. Well it is after all an UNESCO sight so inevitable development of tourism. I was transferred to the Oxalis Camp after that.
I took the 2 days Hang Tien & Tu Lan Caves, meaning there was no overnight stays in the caves. These are part of the Phong Nha Ke Bang cave systems, which also houses the biggest cave in the world, Son Doong. Oxalis was the first operator to conduct such trails but I was pleasantly surprised their enormous effort to gatekeep so that it remains untouched. They were very responsible to the point that their porters would carry bags to collect rubbish along the trails. They have made sure to enter and leave the place as "silently" as possible, with no trace. The guide was very knowledgeable about the flora and fauna, pointing out the diversity around, breaking the journey down to bite sized information. The first day took us to Hang Tien largest Dry Cave, "Fairy Cave". Legend tells about descended fairies busy sightseeing that they forgot their way back to heaven. The crown jewel, The tornado-shaped "Galaxy Swirl" was formed by the erosive force of trapped water inside the previously small cave entrance millions of years ago. Geological jargons start filling the commentary of stalactites, stalagmites, cave pearls, cave corals, gaur pools, draperies (curtain-shaped limestone), and more. On the second day we went to the famous Rat Cave where we enter from a small tail leading to the huge entrance. The 30 metres entrance has been used as a filming set for many famous movies such as “The Immortal" and "The Legend of Quan Tien”. Oh yes we passed the village used as a backdrop of "Kong : Skull Island" too and was told they paid farmers to keep the buffalos at home for the filming duration. There were parts of the experience where we had to do river crossing too and swim in the caves which was rather refreshing (no bat smells).
The caving experience concluded and I stopped by Ninh Binh along the day. Ninh Binh is yet another UNESCO site, Trang An in particular. The Hoa Lu Ancient Capital City feels like a place for History Buffs and to trace the ancient dynasties of Vietnam of 10th century by King Dinh Tien Hoang. It is still a remarkable preservation of their temples and mausoleums. Ofcoz there is the easy motorbike option to save time. Then, at Trang An, it was a pleasantly unexpected caving experience where even for a 1.6m build like me had to "duck" as we entered the 1.0km long caves. The 3.0 hrs boat tour brings us to some temples but we decided not to go down, only having a brief stop at "Kong Filmset" where they explained the Ancient Aboriginals way of life on the cone shaped straw huts. The Ninh Binh exploration ended at Hang Mua Viewpoint with 500 man-made steps into the famous Lying Dragon. There was at least a hundred pax at the queue so I decided not to join the queue to "climb the dragon" and instead took a few checklist photos before heading down to the Lily Pads for somemore photos. I had half a day free but as I reached Tam Coc which was labelled as "Halong Bay of Ninh Binh", I was swarmed with touters to buy ticket, to park motorbike, to take photos, to do this and that, so I decided not to since its only an hours ride for that relatively steep price (compared to Trang An) and I went cafe hopping instead. Then I headed to Hanoi for my next leg of the journey and did express laundry too.
After a Hanoi Michelin Street Food Tour and the touristy Train Street, I joined the rest of SoTravel group to the overnight sleeper bus to Ha Giang. The Ha Giang Loop passes through 4 districts, including Quan Ba, Yen Minh, Dong Van, Meo Vac. Unexpectedly, Ha Giang is also under UNESCO. Dong Van Karst Plateau was recognized as the first Global UNESCO Geopark of Vietnam and the second in Southeast Asia. We went up quickly on Day 1 through Heaven's Gate, Quan Ba Twin Mountains and Fairy Bosom. We ended the day jumping in and chilling at Du Gia Waterfall before our hostel stay at Du Gia. Day 2 took us to Meo Vac, Ma Pi Leng panorama, Lung Cu border flag pole, and Dong Van French Fortress, and a great boat ride at Nho Que river after a loooong bumpy ride. We needed some massage before walking around the cute town of Dong Van. The last day was the longest (160 km, as compared to 130 km and 140 km on previous 2 days) so we sped through Yen Minh, through the century old Vuong Family’s Residence where we see the converging architecture of 3 cultures including Chinese, French and H’Mong Local Ethnic Minority; then the challenging 9 Turn Pass and test site for horses of Tham Ma Pass. We took the last route through A-Boong Waterfall before ending the loop with yet another sleeper bus back to Hanoi. The 6.0 hrs journey had to be shared by 2-pax-in-a-Pod and ended the ordeal at 2am.
So after a quick laundry and shower, and a 2.0 hr nap, Im off to another 6.0 hours Van journey for my next leg, Cao Bang Loop (Ba Be & Ban Giok) starting on that 17th morning. The second half of the day got me to Keo Yen Panorama Point, Lung Luong Ammonites, and the Ho Chi Minh Caves.
Day 2 of Cao Bang got me to God's Eye Mountain, exploring the Incense Making and Paper Making in Phja Thap village, and Doi Co Red Hill. We ended the day with Ban Giok Waterfall and check into my homestay at Ban Giok itself. We started Day 3 with a 20 mins walk to the entrance of Nguon Ngao Tiger Cave. It was a generally small cave and very well developed with wooden planks and artificial lights, a different experience than my Oxalis. Then we had a few stops at the Pagoda viewpoint to Ban Giok then a loooong 4 hours journey to Ba Be. I did express my interest to see the sunset but was only treated with laughter and dismissal of the idea. Everytime I put on the sunglasses, the guide would just laugh and point to the sun, "look sun set". There was a lot of time spent on having tea breaks and smoke breaks along the journey that day towards Ba Be Lake. I had the impression that we would have an overwater stay on Ba Be but turns out the lake was a distant away. The last day was spent on a long 3.0 hours boat trip on Ba Be Lake into Puong Cave, Den Ah Ma, and a Temple in the middle of the lake. Then, it was a 6.0 hours journey back to Hanoi.
The arrival to Hanoi feels great, the feeling of being in a modern city once again. Did some quick shopping at a local designer shop, had Michelin Dinner at "The East", hunted chocolates from Maison Marou, tried to find the rare Laos Coffee Beans for DQ, and then had a Coffee Workshop the next day before my flight.
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- Destinations Covered : Among the 3 loops, I was particularly impressed by the efforts to protect Tu Lan Caves, where levies and government controls have been implemented to preserve the natural environment. The caves are free from artificial lights and planks. Cave experts have trailed using the "firm natura rocks" and the dirt roads formed naturally by erosions and plant growths.
- Observations: The competency and education of guides play a pivotal role in shaping the tourist experience. Oxalis guides, for instance, brought rich knowledge about rock formations, geography, and biodiversity, enhancing my understanding and appreciation of the area. In contrast, other touristy spots like Ninh Binh and Phong Nha still operate within a "have fun, take photos, buy souvenirs" framework.
- Reflections on Sustainable Tourism: This disparity made me question the real impact of tourism on the local economy. Do UNESCO World Heritage sites truly uplift communities, or is the intense competition among vendors only marginally improving livelihoods? Tourism has become a significant sector in Vietnam's economy, with an expected contribution of over 6.4% to the GDP by 2024. But I'm wondering if this benefits the city operators more than the rural ones. Yet some studies have shown that gentrifying is the only way for preservation. So it might be a balance act. Studies indicate that tourists visiting UNESCO sites like Hoi An are willing to pay an average of USD $15 per person for conservation efforts, nearly seven times greater than the willingness to pay by local residents.
2. Experiencing Ha Giang and Cao Bang
- Motorbiking Loops : Ha Giang and Cao Bang offered scenic motorbiking loops, but the experience fell short due to language barriers and the guides' lack of technical knowledge or curiosity. Unlike the Oxalis guides, the guides here could not explain critical historical or cultural aspects, such as The formation of phenomena like the "God’s Eye"; Ho Chi Minh's legacy and the socio-political context of his time; The livelihood systems of mountain villagers and how they sustain their communities, whether there is a guild system and wealth distribution system to ensure livelihood for every household since they are all engaging in the same occupation, same produce, to be sold in same clients. Imagine a curated tour that included Educational Materials about Ho Chi Minh's timeline and ideology on the route, to learn about this inspirations, his education, and the evolution of his political views pre and post "cave" stay.
- Lost Potential for Depth : While the loops have been categorized into themes like "Trail of History and Freedom" or "Transformation of Mountains Trail," these narratives aren't effectively conveyed during the journey. This disconnect detracts from the overall experience. I had to rely on the Tourism Board's plagues to understand the link and context. The Vietnam National Administration of Tourism (VNAT) has actively developed thematic travel routes that leverage the nation's cultural and natural assets .Historians and Cultural Scholars are consulted to design routes that accurately represent Vietnam's history and culture, yet the Tourism Operators and Infrastructure Investors are probably only concerned with profit thus this dissonance.
3. Homestay Culture and the "Happy Water" Routine
- Evening Dynamics : In the evenings, at the homestays, a repetitive pattern emerged. After dinner, guides and riders initiated a drinking session, labeled as a cultural tradition of "Happy Water" consumption. This included pre-dinner drinks, group drinks, and personal invitations to drink by riders, and courtesy drinks when other riders or guests come to our table, and when the host comes to the table. Initially, it felt authentic, but over time, it seemed more like a manufactured experience to create a false sense of happiness for tourists. I feel that they are trying to cover their inadequate knowledge and language proficiency by intentionally inducing dopamine via alcohol to make tourists feel "happy" about the tour experience. This backfired on people like me that dont enjoy drinking to that extent, and also some elderly folks I met during the 2 loops who tend to be more critical about the itinerary and confused about what they are looking at. Most of them are just happy to be in the midst of these geographical parks, so they are easily satisfied by the location itself. I feel that it is also the lack of meaningful night activities (due to the remoteness and limited infrastructure) that led to an over-reliance on drinking culture as the default entertainment. While I appreciate the effort to engage tourists, this routine felt forced and lacked authenticity.
4. Cao Bang Loop – A Disappointing Experience
- Challenges with the Guide: The guide on the Cao Bang loop was, unfortunately, the least competent. His limited proficiency in English made communication extremely difficult, and repetitive, juvenile jokes added to the frustration. The guide's constant jokes about hills being metaphor of breasts and teaching random phrases he claimed to mean "hello" under the guise of cultural immersion were unprofessional and made the experience uncomfortable, in fact. I could not have a proper conversation with any locals at all.
- Poor Time Management: Requests to see sunsets at Ba Be Lake were ignored due to delays caused by smoking breaks, tea stops, and other inefficiencies. Despite having ample time, poor planning meant missing sunsets—one of the simplest joys of such a trip. The experience felt like a missed opportunity for meaningful exploration. And the guide would just joke every day, "look, sun!", during day time, and repeat for 20 times a day. It becomes irritating.
5. Broader Reflections on Tourism in North Vietnam
- Tourist Experience vs. Authenticity: There’s a stark difference between locations like Tu Lan, which prioritize education and preservation, and others that focus on mass tourism without considering long-term impacts. Due to the competency of guides, I guess it would be helpful, though compromising on authenticity, to establish some kind of interactive exhibit with translations at key points along the routes to engage tourists and provide a deeper understanding of the historical significance.
- Guides’ Role: The guides are critical in creating a meaningful experience. Those with technical knowledge and curiosity elevate the journey, while those lacking these skills diminish it. While some guides have badges, some do not, I feel that the enforcement are lacking in this sense, therefore this would jeopardise the tourist experience. Even with badges, I would also assume the quality of guides, some with more personal curiosity and seeking improvements, some just want a routine and quick bucks.
- Over-reliance on "Happy Water": The repeated emphasis on drinking as a cultural norm reflects a gap in providing authentic, enriching experiences, despite them having 53 Ethnic Tribes with unique sets of traditions, languages, and ways of life.
- There was a stark difference in treatment as most people assumed me to be local Vietnamese, so their first engagement is always loud and rude, "WHERE YOU GOING?!", "WHERE YOUR GUESTS?!", "WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU WAITING FOR?!" in their Vietnamese, but then a 180 degrees change in tone when I say I aint a local and then the guide would laugh and say "Bai Nuh" hahhahas, I feel that he is just covering for the default aggression towards their own local people. This extents beyond the loops, but also during the train ride into Hanoi, most countryside folks always adopt this fierce sharp unfriendly tone talking to me when they assume I'm a local. My grandma used to say "乡下佬" means uncivilized, but its literal translation was "village folks". I had never understood the reasoning because I thought, "what's wrong with villagers?" until I go china villages and vietnam villages....... I see the differences now.
Conclusion
This trip highlighted the potential for sustainable tourism in North Vietnam but also exposed significant gaps in execution, especially in terms of guide training, authenticity, and the balance between tourism and preservation. While certain sites have made commendable strides, others need to reconsider their approach to ensure that both tourists and local communities truly benefit.
